How to Care for Nubuck Leather: The Complete Guide
Nubuck is one of the most refined and distinctive leathers used in premium footwear. Its velvety, matte surface and supple texture make it a mark of understated elegance — but that same delicate nap requires attentive care to stay looking its best.
At MAYTON, we believe that caring for your leather shoes is as important as choosing them. Here's everything you need to know to keep your nubuck footwear in impeccable condition.
What is Nubuck?
Nubuck is full-grain leather that has been lightly sanded or buffed on the outer surface, creating a soft, velvety finish similar to suede — but more durable, as it comes from the stronger outer layer of the hide. It is commonly used in high-end shoes, boots, and leather goods.
The Golden Rules of Nubuck Care
1. Brush Regularly
Use a dedicated nubuck brush to gently remove dust and surface dirt after each wear. Always brush in one direction to maintain the nap's uniform texture. This simple habit goes a long way in preserving the leather's appearance.
2. Treat Stains and Scuffs Immediately
Surface marks and scuffs are inevitable — but they don't have to be permanent. For dry stains and light scuffs, a Gum Delicate eraser is an essential tool. Its fine abrasive texture gently lifts marks without damaging the nap, restoring the leather's original appearance. Simply rub gently over the affected area in a circular motion, then brush away any residue.
3. Protect Against Water and Stains
Before the first wear — and regularly thereafter — apply a quality waterproofing spray specifically formulated for nubuck and suede. This creates an invisible barrier against water and staining agents, which is especially important in wet or urban environments.
4. Allow Proper Drying
If your nubuck shoes get wet, let them dry naturally at room temperature. Never place them near a heat source such as a radiator or in direct sunlight, as heat can cause the leather to crack and stiffen. Use shoe trees to help them retain their shape during drying.
5. Store Correctly
When not in use, store your nubuck shoes in a breathable dust bag, away from direct light and humidity. Shoe trees (preferably cedar) help absorb moisture and maintain the shoe's form between wears.
What to Avoid
- Never use standard shoe polish or cream on nubuck — it will clog the pores and ruin the texture.
- Avoid rubbing wet nubuck aggressively, as this can cause permanent marks.
- Keep nubuck away from oily or greasy surfaces.
Build Your Nubuck Care Kit
A proper care routine starts with the right tools. We recommend keeping these essentials on hand:
- A dedicated nubuck/suede brush
- A Gum Delicate eraser by Famaco Paris — for removing dry stains and surface marks with precision
- A waterproofing spray for nubuck and suede
- Cedar shoe trees
With the right care, nubuck leather ages beautifully and only grows more characterful over time. Treat it well, and it will reward you with years of refined style.
— The MAYTON Team